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by
Andrew Hamilton, March 09, 2001 andy@stokes.oe.berkeley.edu
Hello all,
Before the Nationals last fall I wrote down a few
notes for Tim
because he hadn't sailed a wabbit before (or any trapeze boat for that
matter). He read them carefully and it was a big help that we
didn't
have to be explaining the plan as we went around the course. I
found
those notes recently and thought they might be useful for others with
a
new trapeze person aboard. They are included below.
Incidentally, the
list led to a moment of levity when I rolled the boat in during the
last
course race of the nationals. With Jonathan overboard, water
pouring
below, and the boom way way overhead, Tim looked over at me and calmly
asked "What now?, this wasn't on the list". It made me
laugh at the
time.
In General:
The trapeze man's role while racing is largely boat
balance, with a
few additional duties thrown in at mark roundings and during reaching
legs. Additionally, the extended position provides a good view
of the
race course and other boats. Particularly, a boat to leeward and
ahead
is visible for the trap man but out of sight behind the jib for the
crewman and helmsman.
Around the race course:
Start and Windward Leg:
Here weight on the wire is the job. At the start
the trap-man is
often in a good position to judge the distance to the line.
Tacking
requires the trap-man to pass through the 'cabin' of the boat.
The
cooler is well secured and the best place to step/stand as the turn is
made. Hooking/Unhooking from the wire is a matter of personal
preference although weight out on the new side in a timely manner is
important so hooking in after extending out probably speeds the
process,
at the expense of security.
Windward Mark:
Most of the time we will probably be doing a bear away set in
which we
can set the pole up before arriving at the windward mark. The
crewman
sets the pole on the mast, allowing the trap-man to stay out on the
wire.
In the case of a downwind leg, the trap-man comes into
the cabin
and hoists the chute, the halyard is located directly behind the mast.
Usually the middle guy can get the guy back and sheet under control
with
no problem.
Occasionally there is difficulty getting the pole back so this is a
good
thing for the trap-man to check and help with after hoisting.
For a
downwind leg the trap-man can remain in the cabin, sitting on the
cooler. Bailing and flaking out the spinnaker halyard and
spinnaker guy
for the take-down are good things to do also.
In the case of a reaching leg, if it's windy it is
helpful to keep
the trap-man out during the turn and during the set. In this
case, it
seems to work best to have the trap-man pull the spinnaker halyard up
from the trapeze position. A nearly squatting position in the
trapeze
harness seems quite stable for this procedure. When this is
done, the
crewman is free to concentrate on getting the pole guy back, and then
trim the spinnaker sheet in after all of that is set. The down
side to
this is that the spinnaker halyard invariably ends up dragging in the
water behind the boat.
During a reach leg:
While reaching in wind, things get pretty fast. It's best
for the
trap-man to trim the spinnaker, freeing the crewman to keep a hand on
the boom-vang. Also, pulling on the spinnaker sheet adds
stability to
the wire guy. If it gets fast, the weight needs to move aft a
bit, so
the trap-man traps right ahead of the middle guy. During a tight
reach,
the chance of a spin-out is present so the spinnaker may need to be
eased quickly at times.
Jibing:
Jibes always start the same way with a squaring back and the
trap-man
coming off the wire. It works best if both twings get set about
2-3
feet off the deck, choking the spinnaker down a bit. There are
two
options for the division of labor and usually both get used at some
point.
1) Crew man jibes pole.
In this case, the trap-man needs to switch places
with the crew-man
before the jibe and take over the spin sheet and guy, and the twings.
The crew-man goes forward, steps up ahead of the mast and switches the
pole as the boat jibes. A certain amount of ease is needed in
the new
guy to allow the pole to be re-attached. Also, improper twing
settings
immediately after the jibe can lead to pre-mature helmsman freak out
if
it's windy. The new leeward twing needs to be released before
the boat
can be turned back to a reach and the new windward twing needs to come
on hard to keep the pole from skying up (there is no downhaul on the
pole).
2) Trap man jibes pole.
The other option is that the trap-man jibes the
pole, either by
stepping up ahead of the mast or by standing inside the cabin and
reaching up if tall enough. Either way, it's best if the pole is
never
connected to both corners of the spinnaker at the same time.
i.e.. the
order is, release pole from mast ring, let go of the pole and duck
under
the boom vang as the main jibes if standing in the cabin, release pole
from spinnaker, connect pole to new side of spinnaker, re-attach pole
to
mast. Done.
Leeward mark
1) Leeward take down.
The take down is best taken care of by the middle
crew, leaving the
trap-man free to go out on the wire as the rounding is made. If
the
trap guy takes care of the jib sheet, this frees the crewman to douse
the kite, stow the spinnaker pole, etc. The helmsman and trap-guy need
to be careful about sitting/stepping on the guy as this slows the
spinnaker douse.
2) Windward take down is accomplished by approaching the mark
at a run, stripping the pole off a few boatlengths before the mark, then
dragging the kite down to windward. Again this is done by the
middle
guy, freeing the trapeze man to balance the boat.
3) Repeat as necessary.
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